Tuesday 27 December 2011

27/12/11 And this is why one shouldn’t tempt fate!

 

27 December, 2011


For the last few days I have been vocalising my astonishment at the lack of rain since I got back to Gabon. Seriously, there has been nothing apart from a few drizzles for a few minutes and I miss the heavy downpours and massive thunderstorms when holed up in my container at night. So you can imagine my delight when last night it rained properly. Still not as big as I’d like it to get, but heavy enough to make me sleep wonderfully. However, the flip-side to a massive downpour at night is that come morning, the forest is so humid from all the moisture, and warm from its great insulating properties, that a low foggy cloud quickly develops over the canopy, making flying a little tricky to say the least.

Departure for Coucal was delayed a bit while I waited for the cloud to lift. When I finally took off I almost returned immediately. The cloud was still almost touching tree-tops. But it was only a thin, foggy layer, and patchy, and as I flew away from Coucal, towards the lake, I realised that it was easy to get above. Now normally this is a stupid idea for a number of reasons. Firstly, if the engine dies and you’re above cloud, how can you see where to aim the helicopter or judge your height as you come down. And secondly, what if when you get to where you’re going the cloud is solid and you can’t see where to descend through it, and what obstacles, in addition to the ground, are below you. I had plenty of fuel to fly to destination, return to Onal and even fly to Port Gentil if needs be. And, as I said, the cloud was quite patchy, so I could see through it at the jungle below. I decided to carry on and if the cloud got too thick, I’d just return. Onal was opening nicely anyway.

I only had one passenger, who seemed uncomfortable in an aircraft, to say the least. He did a very visible “sign of the cross” across his chest as if to show me that he belonged to God and if I injured him in any way, God would be angry with me. The trip there was uneventful and by the time we got to Coucal the sun was shining brightly. The passenger did what he’d obviously been sent to Coucal to do, found me, and we loaded up and took off again for Onal.

Now the weather had turned quite badly and there was massive rain everywhere. As always, however, its possible to just skirt around the heavy rain (that you can’t see more than 5m into), but on getting closer to Onal it became evident that my helipad would be somewhere in the middle of the massive wall of rain. I called ahead, and again fluently explained my predicament and my intentions. “Too much rain. I look to land somewhere. I call you back.”

The rain was pouring down now, but not heavy enough that I couldn’t see where I was going and I could see the hills beyond the lake so decided to aim for the lake and see if I could get around the rain and sneak into Onal from the opposite direction. My passenger at this stage had clearly given up crossing himself and just closed his eyes and tried to sleep. He wasn’t bluffing anyone. I could see him flinching when the rain pelted the windscreen loudly.

After flying almost the whole way around the lake I noticed that I could sneak down onto the Onal airstrip (about 5km from the camp) and land there until the cloud lifted high enough for me to get to the helipad. No sooner had we touched down than my passenger leapt out, flagged down a passing bakkie and got a lift back to Onal. He had had enough flying for one day. Shame, poor guy. He must have been terrified seeing cloud and rain all around us and without a headset I couldn’t even explain what I was doing. All I could do was give him thumbs up and point at the weather ahead, which I’m sure must have just convinced him that I was insane and suicidal!

Once again, the sun is out and clouds are starting to move off. And I’m done for the day. Tomorrow is a very long day flying literally over most of the country – so could really do without clouds delaying my progress.

Never tempt fate by pointing out what hasn’t happened….

Other than that my only news is that I flew over what looked very much like a couple of chimps the other day. Far too fast to get a picture of them, but cool to at least have spotted them!

And finally we have had a whole new set of helipad green and red lights installed (I think some of the older ones weren’t working either through bulbs blowing or water getting into them). These ones are all LED lights and look quite impressive. I just need a flight which ends a bit late like happened last tour so I can try to get better pictures than the last ones. Perhaps tomorrow…

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Some big noo-noos

Spiders just looove hanging out at camp with all the lights. Their webs are loaded with bugs!

These are just a few random pics. This is a bush in Coucal right next the TV room. Loaded with spiders. My camera refused to focus on the big one on the left, assuming every time I tried to focus that I was looking at the leaves on the left of him. If anyone is interested, the white streak of dense thread through the middle of his web is to stop birds flying into his web by accident.

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A military moth in camouflage fatigues…

How cool is this plant!? And its practically everywhere…

That moth was massive and amazingly camouflaged. Just needs to rethink what it sits on a bit… The next is a video I can’t upload from camp (not allowed) but will do so when next I'm in town. There is a plant all over the place here, called Mimosa pudica which is seismonastic, meaning it responds to touch. Very cool! It opens its leaves out like solar panels when the sun is shining, half closing them if its too hot, and closing them if its overcast or something (like rain) touches the leaves. Even the little stalks holding the leaves collapse if touched. The video shows me abusing one such plant to illustrate how quickly it reacts.

Sunday 25 December 2011

25/12/11 Xmas Day celebrations….

 

25 December, 2011

 

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The canteen is decked out with decorations…

… and messages on the windows. Little cakes for desert on 23rd.

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Hermann (of chocolate éclairs fame) getting all Gangsta!

Well, Christmas Day arrives, or rather Xmas Eve (the Frenchies celebrate more on Xmas Eve it seems). We had a proper feast of food cooked on an outside braai. Little crazy since night time is when the tiny insects come out and dive bomb anyone silly enough to be walking around. They appear to have an affinity to South Africans….

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Two little golden pigs are WEEEEEE!!!

Braai on right, food ahead, booze on left. Ready!

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Many posing for various photos. I was a bit late…

The drinks table very popular…

Obviously there isn’t too much that we can do in a camp in the middle of the jungle, but they dished out some beers and wine for all of us, and “Papa Noel” came out and gave everyone a sweet, but other than that it was really just about sitting around chatting to the guys with some Gabonese music in the background. Apparently one usually stays up until midnight, which is when the kids would open their presents – how the hell do you get them to go to bed after that!?! But given that I can’t easily join in any conversations, and in spite of a couple of guys who speak English coming to chat to me to help me feel included, I faded around 10pm. I know what its like to feel obliged to entertain someone when you’d rather be chatting to your mates, so I felt it only fair to let them off.

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Santa makes an appearance and dishes out sweets…

… then gives us a little impromptu dance before
heading off

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Stan (my heli guy) also taking pictures madly

Dinner is served. Turkey, pork (shame), mutton, beef, prawns and calamari

Kinda a good thing, too, since I was up and flying by 8am this morning! And in this heat a hangover just wouldn’t work! Thankfully it was only to Coucal for a couple of hours, and now back to camp for the rest of the day…. Some heads are looking a little tender and the general noise in the canteen for lunch today seemed quieter than usual… I thought I have to at least post a few pics to show those interested how we do things in Gabon…

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Xmas cake…. First nativity scene I’ve seen on a cake!

Coucal has an arched walkway of palm fronds

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Coucal’s Xmas tree. Looks more like storm damage…

… until you walk around the front…

Merry Xmas all!!!

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“Fweeeeep!!”

Wednesday 21 December 2011

21/12/11 Comment vous disez “barfer” en Anglais?

 

21 December, 2011

Yes, the above could have come in handy last night. I think I suffered some nasty heat exhaustion yesterday after about 5 flying hours logged with very few breaks in between. I had two bottles of water in the chopper, one of which I lost, but I still had a good 1.5-2 litres to drink during the day, as well as a softdrink. Anyway, by the end of the day, while washing the chopper (which I’d been promising to do since I arrived) I started to get a nasty headache. It soon escalated into a monster of a headache, which even lying in bed in total darkness, drinking as much water as I could, as slowly as I could, couldn’t ease.

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Rooms and offices of the Chinese staff at the new camp

The dining room. Linoleum has been pinned to the corners of the floor. In the bedrooms the linoleum is pinned up the walls.

I had flown to a new prospecting camp nearby with a seismologist who wanted to check out the camp’s progress. The camp is run completely by Chinese personnel. I assume the seismic company contracted in is Chinese. But as a result I was given authentic Chinese food for lunch, and since there are very few dogs and cats in Gabon, I figured I was safe. Prawns, and pork. And a very watery soup with wisps of egg white floating in it. But all very good.

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Security fencing and lighting still very much in their early stages

The blue tents that the local labour live in currently

Sadly, with my throbbing head my body decided the Chinese wasn’t good enough and evicted it (and all the water I was trying to get down) in a very impressive display of stomach muscle contraction power… Fortunately it was considerate enough to give me a 10 second warning (the notorious “hoc hoc” twitch from the stomach muscles of Mark Robertson fame) to get to the bathroom. But it really was quite crap. I had Cathy ordering me via Whatsapp to get onto a drip, and I just wanted to lie still, slowly drink my water and try to get rid of the headache. Stubbornness prevailed, I’m afraid, Cath. But my headache was gone when I woke up a few hours later, had some more water. And then it returned for a few hours, just to remind me who was boss… I actually became somewhat paranoid and fumbled for one of my Malaria testing kits (I decided to give the pills a skip since I’m mostly in the bush which is pretty Malaria-free, but keep some test kits nearby in case) but was thankfully negative. I haven’t really been in the country long enough to be showing symptoms, but better safe and all that…

This morning I’m feeling a little slow but much better. No headache – just a little weak and dizzy, but that’s no doubt due to having had no food for over a day (the Chinese can’t count). I’ve just eaten now, so expect full recovery imminently. My second little niggle was that I hooked my finger on a piece of wire on the helicopter whilst washing like a madman. There was a massive storm approaching and I wanted to soap it down and let the storm wash it clean. Didn’t worry too much about it and then with all the illness of last night tried to remember the last time I had a tetanus shot. Since I’d laughed off the drip the night before I figured I shouldn’t become too cocky, so I wandered down to the medic and tried to explain the situation in my best French. “Me, wash helicopter. Look. *shows small cut on finger* Don’t know when *stabs arm illustrating an injection* Tetanus.” It was all quite fluid and the medic smiled in a “well I really appreciate your coming to see me, these sort of things should never be taken too lightly” sort of way. He took me into his surgery, for what I assumed would be my injection. He put a plaster on my finger. “L’injection pas necessaire?” (admire the fluency). “No, c’est pas grave” (Its not serious), he replied. Right. Don’t I feel like a tonsil for rushing over to the medic for a plaster?!

Fortunately it seems that today is a no-fly day – which couldn’t have come at a better time. I think another long day of flying would have killed me. Time now to curl back up in bed and watch one of 100 movies I have brought with me and haven’t even had a chance to start watching… Happy Wednesday, all!

Sunday 18 December 2011

18/12/11 Back to baking in the bush

 

18 December, 2011


I saw the helicopter parked on the apron as we landed in Libreville. Great, I thought. If I can just let them know I'm here maybe I can catch a lift with them and save myself the pain of waiting for a commercial flight to Port Gentil. But how to get through security with no ticket or pilot to escort me...

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Main, upstairs restaurant
in airport

Downstairs bar/café

 

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Queuing to go through security for a domestic flight. This is the main concourse.

Loading guy taking his security very seriously. No chance of passengers becoming confused about where they should go!

I ran through immigration and baggage collection and into the main arrival area, hoping to see the pilot I'm replacing waiting for me. No-one. I rushed through to Domestic Departures, searching the dark, sweaty faces of the masses milling around, sweat pouring down my own shirt in the very very humid, coastal, tropical heat. And then I had to stop and take a photo of the most unlikely scene one could imagine in Gabon...

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I know SA is hardly much better, but I never expected to see snow and
reindeer in Libreville!

Fortunately once before I had been taken to the helicopter via a back way through someone's hangar down the runway, and I thought I'd give that a try - although walking as if you are meant to be there and have a job to do while dragging your baggage along with you is a little tricky to pull off. However, no-one stopped me and I managed to find the engineer of one of the company's planes (the chopper had already left) and managed to hitch a ride with them when they left for Port Gentil at 15h30.

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How awesome is the instrumentation in this caravan?!

A little bit of Libreville on
climb-out


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Something to rival Moses Mabhida Stadium perhaps?

Libreville waterfront/coastline. This is a big city!


The heli pilot met me in the hotel where we did a handover and went out to dinner before I collapsed into bed and slept like the dead. The next morning he casually got up for breakfast and came with me to the airport just for something to do. He was on his way home and thus was in no rush, and I was flying four passengers the long route to almost the southern boundary of Gabon to Banio2 (where I had to spend the night on my last tour when the clouds descended). Talk about hitting the ground running! I had just landed after two very full days of travel and was immediately flying 5 hours along the coastline, with an impromptu concert of rude songs sung with exuberance into my headset (I'm the only one with a plugged in headset) to keep myself awake.

I returned for a second night in the hotel before flying out to the Onal camp this morning. I am now finally unpacked and settled into my little container in the bush, ready to get back to the Decimator, some jungle flying, and some R&R from the stresses of Durbs, in no particular order.

Stay in touch, all, and chat soon...

17/12/11 I wanna be an A-list celebrity, so frikkin bad…

 

17 December, 2011


… but only in airports so I can avoid all the undressing for security scans and baggage harassment…

Well, arrived finally in camp. Unpacked all electronics and IT paraphernalia before any clothes or toiletries. How typical of me...

I left Durban on Friday 16th Dec, flying up on 1Time. I was asked if I wanted a window seat when checking in but realised that the "window" seat was 2nd to last row in the tail of the plane, with an almost 180° view of the starboard engine! And nothing else... Since I was there I figured I'd help the crew out and carry out a pre-flight inspection on that engine. A mistake I realised almost instantly when I noted that the upper cowling panel had latches that didn't at all align with the lower cowling's holes. Almost as if they'd put the wrong cowling on the engine.

Thankfully a 1Time pilot sat next to me (he was clearly just getting a lift to JHB, and turned down sitting in the jumpseat up front no doubt for some peace and quiet at the back) and with great relief I explained proudly what I had discovered, wondering at the same time if I'd get a big reward or medal for saving all these lives with my sharp observational skills.

He leaned across me, stared at the cowlings for a long while, then shrugged his shoulders and sat back, opening his paper and saying, "Should be fine". Nice. The flight proceeded without incident, while I kept a keen eye on the cowling throughout. No medal for me...

A few hours later I boarded the flight to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. As the more astute of you will be wondering, yes I am in Gabon. I was paid very late for the first trip, so by the time I went online with money to buy my tickets for this trip they had gone from R6500 to R18000!!! I nearly poohed my brooks. A very long story short, a heroic travel agent found me R9000 tickets to Libreville, Gabon via Addis. Maybe it was my offer to marry his ugly sister that spurred him to work tirelessly to find an option that wouldn't have cost so much it would have practically negated my reason for coming to Gabon in the first place.

Bottom line, I was on my way to Addis. Somewhat excited, since I've never been to northern Africa and thought it would be interesting seeing a country with Arab influence. The excitement for the journey was tainted with two things. Firstly, I was sat next to one of the siffest British yobs I have ever met, who oozed over the armrest and into part of my seat. And secondly, as dinner was dished out and I hungrily dived into my chicken breast, I pulled back the top of the little sealed, plastic butter pouch and poured the entire pouch of liquid butter onto my shorts. All over the front of my shorts. Who wants to hazard a guess as to what butter looks like when it cools and solidifies on someone's shorts? They gave me a little cup with a wet facecloth in it to go to the toilet and try to clean it off (which was a mortifying enough walk), but that didn't really help, and when I got off the plane on the other end, parents were shielding their children's eyes as they glared at me with dimly disguised disgust!

I discovered something I didn't know about Addis when I disembarked. On landing the pilot reported (in a strong, difficult to understand accent) something that sounded like the temperature was 16°C outside. I was dressed for Gabon. Where the temperature has never been 16°C. Ever. My crusty shorts and thin t-shirt were no match for Addis - which is 7600 feet above sea level, and I was shivering quickly. No jersey in my bag because I was going to Gabon. Where the temperature.... (oh I've already said that). Little was explained to us on arrival, but I knew that somehow I was to be put in a hotel for the night as part of the ticket price. So I rushed around trying to find out where to go and what to do. Fairly simple, unless its your first time. And there are queues for EVERYTHING!!! Everything typically disorganised and slow.

I was in a queue of about a hundred people and couldn't leave the queue to walk to the front to ask because I'd lose my place, so I stood for nearly an hour before being given a piece of paper that said I was going to spend the night in a hotel. But no name written down for the hotel. I couldn't go through immigration because I didn't know where I was staying. I walked around and found another queue where little temporary visa cards were given out when they decided which hotel everyone was going to. In their defence, they had 6 immigration desks open for only two flights arriving, where JHB had had a whopping 2 desks open for all internationally departing passengers! Quite ridiculous. Honestly took about 2 hours in total to get everything sorted and get in the queue for the bus for the hotel.

Walking out onto the main concourse landside, I noted how about 20 small booths ran along the walls, each one for a different hotel, from the Hilton and Sheraton to some really grotty looking ones. Almost all were 4-star, including the one I went to, although I doubt it would be 2-star in SA. The drives to and from the hotel were disappointing because we arrived at the hotel at 11pm, and left the hotel at 5.30am, so drove in the dark both ways and thus was unable to see the city much at all. A few of the buildings I could see had pretty ornate architecture.

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The decor of my room – not the most modern to be fair

Clean sheets, which is more than could be said for the carpet…

The inside of the dining room area of my hotel had very dark wood and reminded me of Arabic movies. My room smelt very musty and had a carpet I kept my shoes on for but the sheets were clean and I was really too tired to care. Probably because it was so cold, there were no mosquito nets, air conditioners or even fans, and a couple of mozzies around, so I swam a few lengths in my Tabard before bed and after breakfast.

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A lounge room just off the
dining room

Very dark wood everywhere – quite old school

The bus took 20mins to get to the airport, and in the dark all I could really see were the buildings alongside the road. It looked like quite a run down area on the edges of town. Most buildings have water tanks on their roofs, presumably because there isn't much rain, and a number of blocks of flats had rows of satellite dishes in their gardens with loose cables stretched straight up into each apartment's window. Would have loved to have gotten a picture of that but just too dark. Scaffolding for building appears to be made with long wooden poles lashed together.

Everyone (passengers, friends and family etc.) entering the airport has to have themselves and their baggage scanned at the entrance. So the queuing started right from the front door. Belts off, shoes off, my copper bracelet off and still I was bloody beeping! After check in there is another security check where everything happens again. Way more thorough checking than anywhere in SA. I'd say its similar to the security checks in the US when I went there in 2005.

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Typical dress of the local women – although I didn’t see anyone actually in white

On the move to Libreville – now I see why it was so cold!

But after that, and a 1.5 hour delay, sitting in the plane ready to go while the cargo packers decided to unpack EVERYTHING onto the apron to pack it better, we were off and finally heading for Gabon...

Tuesday 22 November 2011

22/11/11 Port Gentil revisited

 

22 November, 2011


Well, I’m in Port Gentil again, and this time I got a day off with nothing to do so could do a little exploring and walking around town. I took a few more pics (not too many – locals don’t seem too thrilled about being photographed all the time) as I walked along the waterfront, and then back along the “main street”.

Annoyingly, a stray dog started following me as I walked along the waterfront. A fairly young puppy that was very boisterous and just wanted to play. I didn’t want to encourage him, so just walked, hoping he’d lose interest. But he followed me on what must have been a 2km walk. At one point three other dogs joined us. And then we walked past a traffic circle and four dogs lying around on the circle started barking. Hackles went up on mine and I thought I was going to be caught in a dog fight right in the middle of the street with a dog that must have looked to everyone else like mine. Fortunately the fighting didn’t erupt and instead I walked on with 8 dogs in tow – all heavily addicted to crack (their own, thankfully).

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Port Gentil’s version of a “park”. A row of bushes
and plants…

..with a pathway of sand behind..

I walked past the President’s Residence. Whole block with his walled-in house in it. Very big, one giant block building, and painted the most revolting bright green and yellow. I didn’t know if taking photos of it was acceptable, so chickened out. Don’t need to end up in prison a few days before I leave! But I’ll get a pic of it from the air when I’m next out – really is quite a siff colour scheme.

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A completed and painted pirogue

The guy in action with his axe

Saw a guy chopping a massive tree log into the boats they use here (pirogues). Typical tropical island hollowed out tree trunk. Was quite impressive to see the separate compartments cut into it, presumable for strength.

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Assemblage of three platforms in the bay. Helipads all over them!

Hmm, “Centre de Santé”
– I’m not so sure….!

I saw the massive logs they have chained together that stretch out into the bay in a wide circle, and are used to “fence” timber logs in before going into the mill. They must cut down trees seasonally, since I haven’t seen the “fences” with any trunks in them at all. This one pic shows how relatively close an oil platform is from the town. Its actually three platforms close together.

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Maybe not quite so pretty…

This one looks quite acceptable

Walked past a number of little eateries. Some very pleasant looking, that if I had money I might pop into. Some not quite so much…. I get CFA15000 credit for each meal (about USD30 – but things are very cheap here!) when I’m in town  Apparently, however, they have to be used at the one restaurant, which is very nice but I wouldn’t mind mixing it up a little, especially today that I can. So I walked past the others, took a couple of pics, and then found myself back in my road.

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Very pleasant restaurant
called Le Nautilus

Ah, desert….! They don’t
play games here!

I’m now back in my room, and will shortly be searching my computer for a movie to watch this afternoon…. So tired of CNN news which never seems to change, and here they only have SKY, which is marginally better, but equally repetitive. Last night I watched Hugh Grant giving his evidence in the News Of the World case, and they’ve played it over and over….

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Front entrance to my hotel Hirondele from the street

I forget I’m on the equator, and many of the satellites are almost directly overhead. I think the one angled one is probably pointing at a satellite over France